The Northern Rhône Valley has some of the most breathtaking vineyards in the world — and some of the most stunning wines.
Unlike the Southern Rhône, a much larger region with dozens of appellations and a wide range of grapes cultivated, the Northern Rhône is a long, narrow sliver of appellations along the Rhône River that focus on just a few varieties and handle them well. Exceedingly well.
And while the Southern Rhône, which I wrote about in my last column, produces an almost endless stream of great-value wines — the familiar Côtes du Rhônes and many others — the northern wines are almost all “cru” wines, named after the famous villages where the grapes are grown. They cost more, and are worth it.
In these eight star appellations — Saint Peray, Cornas, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, Château-Grillet, Condrieu, and Côte-Rôtie — the reds are dominated by Syrah, while the whites are made from Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier. Most are on the Right Bank of the Rhône River, though Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage are on the Left Bank.
The climate and soils are different from those of the south as well. The Northern Rhône has a more continental climate, not as warm as that of the south, and the wines, especially the reds, can be a bit lighter (though not “light”), lower in alcohol, and offer more acidity.
And whereas the soils in the south are dominated by limestone, and pebbles deposited by the river, in the Northern Rhône much older granite and mica-schist are the norm.
On a visit to the Rhône Valley last month, I began my tour of the northern appellations one morning from atop the mountain overlooking the Rhône River and the famous terraced vineyard known as La Chapelle, named after the tiny chapel that marks it.
There, we had a fabulous “breakfast” tasting of four iconic wines from Domaine Paul Jaboulet: the 2022 Condrieu “Les Grands Amandiers,” the 2020 white Hermitage “La Chapelle,” the 2016 red Saint-Joseph “La Croix des Vignes,” and the the 2005 red Hermitage “La Chapelle” — most of them tiny-production wines that command stratospheric prices — if you can find them.
But the tasting set the stage for other, more down-to-earth bottlings from other producers that would follow that day and would give me a better understanding and greater appreciation of the region and the wines.
Many of the vineyards in the Northern Rhône are on steep, terraced mountains that make harvesting by machine impossible. “It’s very difficult to work because all of it is done by hand,” says Yves Cuilleron, who has vineyards in most of the appellations. “It’s ‘haute couture’ work because when you do all the work by hand it’s more precise.” That hand-produced quality is evident when you taste his wines.
These days, the wines of the Northern Rhône are ripe, but not over-the-top in terms of fruit or alcohol. Not yet. And that’s just where Cuilleron wants them.
He points out that in the 1980s and ‘90s, it was difficult to achieve ripeness. And then climate change started to become a factor. “Since 2015, it’s warmer and warmer. And for the Northern Rhône I would say it’s perfect now,” he says with a laugh, noting that the current vintages are more ripe and more consistent. “For now it’s a good thing, global warming, for the Northern Rhône, because it’s more easy, more regular, but I’m afraid if it continues it can be a problem.”
Although I tasted wines from most of the Northern Rhône appellations, I’ve weighted the list below toward Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph. They’re the two largest appellations within the relatively small region, produce more wine than the others, and are therefore more available — and at somewhat lower prices — than wines from appellations like Cornas, Hermitage, Condrieu, or Côte Rôtie.
Regardless of the appellation, the wines are benchmarks: Like the Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays of Burgundy, the Syrahs and the Viogniers and other whites of the Northern Rhône are the reference points by which others are compared and judged.
Here are eight of the best Northern Rhône wines:
Saint Cosme Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2022
From the larger Crozes-Hermitage appellation adjacent to Hermitage, this medium-bodied Syrah shows bright blackberry and blueberry flavors, hints of dried thyme and cinnamon, and a chalky minerality. Dusty tannins give it good structure. Grown in granite soils and aged in mostly used small barrels, the wine is relatively lean at 13 percent ABV.
Price: $33
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Yves Cuilleron Crozes-Hermitage Rouge ‘Labaya’ 2021
Aromas and flavors of concentrated dark fruit, mainly cassis, dominate this notable Syrah, with hints of violets, cumin, and black licorice. Smooth tannins make it effortless to drink. Cuilleron said that although he has over 170 acres of vineyards, he mainly buys grapes for his Crozes-Hermitage wines. Also notable: Cuilleron’s less expensive 2022 Syrah ‘Les Vignes d’à Coté,’ an IGP wine with a hint of black pepper that’s one of the better values from the Northern Rhône.
Price: $34
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François Villard Saint-Joseph Rouge ‘Poivre et Sol’ 2021
This is a stunning example of Saint-Joseph with an ABV of just 12.5 percent. On the nose, wet stone, a touch of black pepper, strawberry, and blueberry aromas dominate. Firmly tannic and mineral-driven, hints of milk chocolate and forest floor emerge on the palate, along with some darker fruit notes as the wine opens up. Ripe yet crisp with perfect acidity.
Price: $35
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Pierre Gaillard Saint-Joseph Rouge 2022
From a blend of several Saint-Joseph parcels, this Syrah gives off aromas of blue and red fruits, violets, and a hint of cracked pepper. Gently tannic with a good deal of minerality, it’s drinking well right now but will develop for a number of years.
Price: $45
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Cave de Tain ‘Nobles Rives’ Hermitage Rouge 2018
There’s a lot going on with this superb red Hermitage, which shows aromas of concentrated blackcurrant, black cherry, violets, leather, and braised meat. On the palate, hints of red licorice and espresso emerge. Silky tannins give it a smooth, refined quality. It’s aged nicely already and has quite a few years to go.
Price: $75
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Maison Les Alexandrins Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2022
A blend of 60 percent Marsanne and 40 percent Roussanne, this is a great alternative to Chardonnay with aromas and flavors of Bosc pear, white peach, and hints of lime and tangerine. Herbs and a touch of cream on the finish. Well-integrated oak and a chalky mineral texture round things out. There’s lots of subtlety in this winning wine.
Price: $30
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Yves Cuilleron Condrieu ‘Les Chaillets’ 2022
Aromas of wet stone, yellow and white peach, apricot, and lime are infused with herbs and honey notes on the palate in this gorgeous, mineral-driven Viognier. There’s a touch of brioche at the end. Rich yet balanced with great mouthfeel.
Price: $67
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Saint Cosme Condrieu 2022
If ever there were a wine not to drink too cold, this would be it. This Viognier, though young, shows beautiful notes of pear, green apple, a bit of honey, and hints of fresh tarragon, fennel, and thyme. The flavors emerge as it warms up to just under room temperature. A subtle minerality brings dimension to the fruit.
Price: $82
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