Palmer Vineyards may not have the kind of buzz that some wineries on eastern Long Island command. Founded in 1983 by Robert Palmer, the property on the North Fork is now owned by the Massoud Family, owners of the higher-profile Paumanok Vineyards 20 minutes away.
But a taste of Palmer’s 2015 Old Roots Merlot says a great deal about the winery — and about Long Island wines in general.
For one thing, the region’s red wines are capable of aging beautifully, with the Old Roots Merlot evoking an aged Saint-Émilion or Fronsac from the Right Bank of Bordeaux. For another, the wine is a lithe 13 percent alcohol, modest by California standards but emblematic of the relatively restrained Long Island style.
And then, Palmer offers this remarkable wine for $45 — not inexpensive, but a bargain when you consider its quality (it was on VinePair’s list of the 20 Best Merlots for 2025). While the grapes come from some of the oldest vines on the North Fork, it’s important to remember that wine on Long Island only dates back a little more than 50 years.
So, in a sense, they’re still figuring out what works best — and growing all kinds of grapes. (There’s even a Teroldego, a northern Italian variety, on the list below.) While Merlot is certainly up there among grapes that thrive in Long Island’s well-draining glacial soils, it appears that the lesser-known Cabernet Franc, with roots in France’s Loire Valley and Bordeaux, is emerging as the region’s signature red.
And that’s what Long Island Wine Country, the region’s trade group, has decided to focus on. Cab Franc was a centerpiece of the recent “Blanc & Franc Summit,” a marketing event that showcased the variety along with Sauvignon Blanc (which I wrote about in my recent column on Long Island’s white wines).
“Cabernet Franc is coming through as a star,” says Robin Epperson-McCarthy, the Saltbird Cellars owner and winemaker. “Merlot’s always been a star since the minute it was planted. Cab Franc was planted as a blending component, but now that we know how to control the green growth and the vigor that those vines naturally have, we’re getting more concentrated, more vibrant Cabernet Francs.”
“If Cabernet Franc is grown the way we’re growing it and other quality regions are growing it, in well-drained soils, you have nice red fruit coming out, violets, elegance, seamless tannins,” adds Russell Hearn, the Australian-born winemaker and an owner of Suhru & Lieb Vineyards. He echoes Epperson-McCarthy on the importance of low fruit yields, which many believe is key to producing quality wines. “I can say this because of my [Australian] background: You will never, ever come across a Yellowtail Cabernet Franc,” Hearn laughs, referring to the Australian mega-brand.
Benefiting from the cooling influence of a maritime climate, Long Island Cab Francs and other varieties are marked by their ample acidity and moderate alcohol levels, making them excellent food wines, a fact highlighted by Roman Roth, the longtime winemaker and a partner in Wölffer Estate Vineyard on the South Fork. “We make the most food-friendly wines in America,” he boasts.
Here are 12 of the best red wines from Long Island:
McCall Cabernet Franc 2021
This medium-bodied Cab Franc, with alcohol listed at 12.8 percent, shows just how well the variety does on the North Fork. Dark fruit aromas and flavors with spice, earth, and tobacco accents. Aged in neutral French oak barrels, the wood influence is there but subtle.
Price: $28
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Pellegrini Cabernet Franc 2019
This excellent Cab Franc shows concentrated, ripe blueberry and raspberry fruit along with notes of earth, leather, and baking spices. Light in color, it’s almost Pinot Noir-like. Fine tannins make it easy to drink now.
Price: $35
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Palmer Vineyards Old Roots Merlot 2015
With concentrated dark fruit notes, mainly cassis, blackberry, and plum, this 10-year-old Merlot stands alone and demonstrates the ageability of Long Island red wines. Hints of cedar, milk chocolate, and bell pepper are supported by silky tannins. And unlike some high-alcohol California wines, this one is a modest 13 percent.
Price: $45
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As If Wines ‘Persistence’ 2017
A blend of 59 percent Cab Franc, 33 percent Merlot, and 8 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, this softly tannic wine opens up nicely to reveal notes of cassis, plum, and ripe raspberry. A hint of graphite and refreshing acidity complete the picture.
Price: $40
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Paumanok Cabernet Franc 2022
This elegant, medium-bodied Cab Franc has a touch of herbs on the nose, punctuating very ripe blue and black fruit. On the palate, overripe strawberry emerges along with touches of coffee and baking spices. Nicely complex.
Price: $36
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Suhru Teroldego 2024
Dense and dark, which is typical of this variety native to Alto Adige in Italy’s northeast, this wine is marked by peppery dark berry fruit. With notes of blackberry and dark plum, it’s punctuated by herb and baking spice notes. Its moderate tannins and lively acidity make it well suited for tomato-based sauces and other Italian-inspired dishes. Though young, it’s already drinking well.
Price: $42
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Macari Cabernet Franc 2022
Red fruit aromas lead to sour cherry and raspberry notes on the palate, with herb and unsweetened chocolate accents. Good supporting acidity keeps the wine refreshing. Macari has been a pioneer in sustainable agriculture on the North Fork.
Price: $38
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RGNY Cabernet Franc 2022
I wrote “delicate” in my notes about this wine, and when I looked at the label I realized why: The alcohol is listed at just 11.6 percent, making it light-bodied compared to Cab Francs from other regions that weigh in at much higher levels. This one is altogether satisfying with aromas and flavors of ripe raspberry, blueberry, and red licorice along with hints of cedar and white pepper. Bright acidity makes it exceedingly food-friendly, including for full-flavored fish dishes.
Price: $45
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Wölffer Estate Vineyard ‘The Grapes of Roth’ Merlot 2020
This is another exceptional Long Island Merlot, named for Roman Roth, the winemaker at Wölffer Estate in Sagaponack. It’s described as his “private label” wine. With its silken texture, it shows notes of blueberry and cranberry with brown sugar and powdered cinnamon accents. Also worth trying if you want to splurge: Wölffer’s 2019 “Christian’s Cuvée” Merlot.
Price: $48
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Saltbird Cellars Merlot 2021
The lean and welcome mouthfeel of this Merlot is reflected in its modest 12.5 percent ABV. Dark fruit aromas and flavors are punctuated by earth and mineral notes. Also worth trying: Saltbird’s 2019 “Harbinger,” a winning blend of 70 percent Merlot and 30 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.
Price: $29
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Sannino Vineyard ‘Spotlight’ Petit Verdot 2022
Known mainly as a blending grape in Bordeaux, Petit Verdot shines on its own in this single-varietal bottling. If you like bigger, juicier wines, this one fits the bill with its dense, dark ripe fruit. Violets and Mediterranean herbs accent the fruit in this firmly tannic wine with characteristic high acidity.
Price: $55
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Paumanok Assemblage 2021
This outstanding red leans more heavily on Cabernet Sauvignon, which accounts for 43 percent of the blend, along with Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc. With just the right tannic structure, the wine shows aromas and flavors of cassis, blackberry, cherry, and herbs. With 18 months of aging in mostly used French oak barrels, the wood influence is pitch perfect.
Price: $75
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