Table Of Contents
The Details
| Rating | 86 |
| Style |
Bourbon American Whiskey Whiskey |
| Produced In |
Kentucky United States |
| ABV | 45% |
| Availability | Limited |
| Price | $169.99 |
| Reviewed By | |
| Review Updated | 2023-09-27 |
Old Forester 2023 Birthday Bourbon Review
Dropping every Sep 2, Old Forester’s Birthday Bourbon release is one of the hottest dates on the annual bourbon calendar. Currently in its 23rd iteration, Birthday Bourbon is probably as well known for its unique bottle design (a flattened disc at the bottom culminating in a long neck) as the juice therein. Though the releases range in age, the bourbon is generally aged at least 10 years and (usually) features a flavor profile unique to high-end Brown-Forman products.
The release date itself is meant to honor Old Forester founder George Garvin Brown, born in 1846. Brown would ultimately lend his name to what became Brown-Forman, a publicly traded spirits giant that is still largely controlled by voting members of the Brown family.
According to Brown-Forman, 103 barrels went into the 2023 Birthday Bourbon, all filled on May 5, 2011 and aged in Warehouse I, 5th floor. The Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey is bottled at 96 proof.
This September, I was present for the birthday festivities at Old Forester’s “Whiskey Row” distillery in downtown Louisville. There, a Brown-Forman representative confirmed the 2023 release came from the same batch of barrels as 2022’s bottling, aged for one additional year.
In a press release, Old Forester Master Taster Melissa Rift said, “This year's 12-year-old offering serves up a classic Old Forester profile that honors George Garvin Brown's ongoing legacy.”
Will those 2023 Birthday Bourbon hit those classic flavor marks with a bang — or a whimper?
Old Forester 2023 Birthday Bourbon: Stats and Availability
As with previous years, Old Forester 2023 Birthday Bourbon is a limited, highly allocated release.
There are two main ways for consumers to get their hands on this release, which has an MSRP of $169.99. First, an (undisclosed) number of bottles will be released for select retailers across the U.S., and it’s likely many of those will be listed for significantly higher prices. (I’ve seen shelf prices in New York City vary between $700 and $1,200, although Gotham whiskey retail is generally at the tippy top of the too-high end.)
The best chance of paying suggested retail is to enter into Old Forester’s annual sweepstakes, where lucky winners will be able to purchase their bottles at the distillery. This year’s winners were selected on Sep 2. If you’re interested in trying your luck next year, the sweepstakes generally opens the week or so before.
Old Forester 2023 Birthday Bourbon Review
As with all of VinePair’s whiskey reviews, this was tasted in a Glencairn glass and rested for at least five minutes.
Nose
The bourbon’s nose immediately hits with banana peel and an undertone of sour candy. (Immediate curveball!) That undertone gradually gives way to a scent more like sour mash, something I’m familiar with at a very different stage of the whiskey making process. I’m immediately searching for sweeter tones on the nose, and they’re present after some time: Bananas Foster and crème brulée, but not as pronounced as I might hope to balance some of those tart and borderline sour notes.
There’s also a strong woody characteristic quite distinct from oak. The closest I can surmise is cedar, a bit like stepping inside a lined closet used to store winter clothes. It’s oily, woody, not quite veering into varnish but definitely reminiscent of cedar boards.
While previous releases often have deep and rich fruit notes, in this instance, those come across more in line with that sour candy pop, like watermelon or green apple hard candy.
Eventually, after almost 10 minutes in the glass, the whiskey evolves and mellows further; it subsequently opens up to become more, well, enjoyable. Suddenly those candy notes pair in harmony with the crème brulée, with just a softened backdrop of cedar.
The bourbon sure takes its time, but it’s worth the wait for a complex and compelling nose.
Taste
At first sip, there’s an immediate interplay of tart toward the tip of the tongue and sweeter toward the middle and back of the palate; an acclimatizing first sip (or two) are important here. Unlike the nose, classic oak is present in abundance, with welcome influence from the wood and char pairing with banana candy and a bit of lemon peel — that fruit finally coming through in the form of fresh citrus zest.
Later on, notes of dark and salted caramel sit at the back of the tongue and spread nicely throughout the palate from there. This iteration of Birthday Bourbon has an appropriately thick (but not syrupy) mouthfeel to carry those flavors.
Generally, this drinks just above its 96 proof, a feature fans of previous releases may find familiar.
Finish
Suddenly, things come oh so slightly off the rails. That sweetness on the palate abruptly ends at first swallow, replaced by very dark baking chocolate, leaning toward cacao nibs in bitterness.
There’s a note of fried plantain that’s keeping things from flying too far off into extremely bitter and tannic territory. But unfortunately, it’s not quite grounding enough to really help this whiskey stick its landing.
A dry, leathery finish — which is ultimately what we have here — isn’t a deal breaker in the right bourbon; indeed, it can sometimes be a superpower with the right flavor profile. However, in this instance, we’re left with a finish that’s too bitter in too many ways to really seal the deal.
Old Forester 2023 Birthday Bourbon Rating
86/100
Recap
Old Forester 2023 Birthday Bourbon shows promise on the nose and palate, invoking aromas and flavor that have helped previous releases earn their place on the top shelf. A surprisingly bitter finish throttles those high points, resulting in a bourbon that’s simply good, but not great — and not at the high mark we know Brown-Forman can hit with this product.
Today, a number of other major producers release consistently great bourbon with 12+ year age statements, many at lower price points. (Significantly lower compared to what folks are likely to see this for at retail.) Some are even within the Brown-Forman portfolio. While Old Forester 2023 Birthday Bourbon has some good qualities, and I certainly wouldn’t turn down a pour, this iteration lags a bit behind competing products at cheaper prices.
With an undoubtedly deep reservoir of aging stock — and some of the smartest minds in distilling on staff — I see this year’s Birthday Bourbon as a speed bump in Brown-Forman’s annual release, and not a permanent derailment.
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