The Fiano grape thrives in southern Italy, where it produces aromatic dry white wines that offer fascinating alternatives to more familiar varieties like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

While Fiano di Avellino in Campania is considered the top appellation for the grape, it is also grown elsewhere in Italy, including Puglia, where Masseria Surani produces an excellent example.

Masseria Surani’s 2018 “Arthemis” Fiano is bursting with fairly intense aromas and flavors. Pear, tangerine, and tropical fruit tastes are accented by herb and white flower notes, with a touch of vanilla and a hint of green olive on the finish.

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Masseria Surani ‘Arthemis’ Fiano 2018, Puglia, Italy is a good wine you can actually find.

This complexity makes it a fascinating and delicious aperitif wine. It also maintains its fruit character for several days after opening, making it a perfect white wine to have on hand in the fridge for a glass before dinner. And, at around $20, the price is right.

Food pairings include a variety of fish and shellfish dishes; I have no doubt that oysters on the half shell would be a brilliant match. Alcohol is a refreshingly modest 12.5 percent, which belies the rich mouthfeel and depth of the wine. It was aged in stainless-steel tanks without the use of oak.

Fiano has a long history in southern Italy, but Masseria Surani is a relatively new winery in the Puglian city of Manduria located in the “heel” of Italy’s “boot.” It’s surrounded by 130 acres of organic vineyards not far from the Ionian Sea, whose breezes moderate the intense summer heat.

Masseria Surani is part of Tommasi Wine Estates, which is best known for its Amarone in the Veneto region but which also has wine properties in Tuscany, Oltrepò Pavese, and Basilicata.

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