It says something when a well-known TV series about Italian food, in an episode about Puglia, ignores the wines of the region in the heel of the boot of southern Italy. Pasta, bread, olives, fish, meats? All well represented. But the wines? Not a single word.
As I watched, I thought how appropriate some of the Negroamaros, Primitivos, and Uva di Troias — Puglia’s leading red varieties — might be with many of the dishes seen in the episode.
I guess the show’s host (a well-known actor) and producers must have figured that Puglia is still a backwater region when it comes to wine. Quantity over quality. Serviceable wines at best. Better to choose wines from Tuscany, Sicily, Piemonte, or so many other regions.
And yet, what they might not have realized is that many of the Puglian reds on store shelves these days have grown out of their reputation and are distinctive wines for everyday drinking at excellent prices.
Most of the wines you’ll find are relatively young, fairly big, and fruit-driven, given Puglia’s hot climate. But then there are examples like the 2013 Notarpanaro, a Negroamaro-based wine with more than a decade of aging that reminded me of a Barolo with its light color and earthy red fruit notes.
Primitivo is the most planted variety in Puglia and has received a good deal of attention because of the fact that, genetically, it was shown to be the same grape as California’s Zinfandel (it’s believed to have originally made its way to Puglia from Croatia across the Adriatic Sea to the northeast.)
The grape’s best-known appellation in Puglia is Primitivo di Manduria, and the variety is generally high in alcohol with medium tannins, although there are lighter, less alcoholic expressions as well.
Negroamaro, Puglia’s second most planted grape, is, to my palate, more interesting and complex than Primitivo, but I’ll let you form your own judgment. You’ll find it labeled under a number of DOCs, including Salento, which refers to the southern part of Puglia.
Uva di Troia, also known as Nero di Troia, is found in Castel del Monte in the north of Puglia and other denominations and is often blended with the Aglianico grape. It produces dark, full-bodied wines with medium tannins and often a good deal of complexity.
One of the great things about Puglian wines is that they are real bargains, with some of the under-$15 examples showing well above their price tags.
Here are eight of the best Puglian red wines to get you started.
Cosimo Taurino Notarpanaro Negroamaro Salento IGP 2013
It’s unusual to find a current-release wine from just about anywhere with 11 years of age under its belt, but Cosimo Taurino holds its wine back for years before release. This 2013 Negroamaro has developed beautifully, showing mature notes of fig, overripe strawberry, earth, black licorice, and balsamic. A good one to compare with more mature Bordeaux and Nebbiolos from Piedmont.
Price: $22
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Torrevento Castel del Monte ‘Bolonero’ 2019
A blend of Nero di Troia and Aglianico, this well-balanced wine has a lot going on: Red berry aromas and flavors are joined by floral and spice notes, along with touches of cinnamon, coffee, and graphite. (Torrevento’s 2021 “Infinitum” Primitivo is also worth trying, offering earthy red and dark berry notes supported by refreshing acidity.)
Price: $15
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Masseria Li Veli ‘Askos’ Susumaniello Salento IGT 2022
There’s a good deal of complexity in this wine from the relatively obscure Susumaniello grape. Aged in French oak barrels, it offers brambly dark berry and garrigue herb aromas. On the palate, the fruit is accented by hints of semi-sweet chocolate, espresso, and cinnamon. The vines grow in clay, sand, calcareous soils and the wine has a textured minerality.
Price: $24
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Castello Monaci Primitivo ‘Priluna’ Salento IGT 2021
This is an excellent Primitivo with spicy red fruit notes, including raspberry, cherry, and plum with hints of white pepper and vanilla. With nice complexity, it drinks like a more expensive wine than its under-$15 price tag.
Price: $12
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Santa Lucia ‘il Melograno’ Castel del Monte 2019
The Santa Lucia property has been producing wine for more than 200 years. This bottle, made from organic Nero di Troia grapes, offers good supporting acidity underlying the spicy cherry, raspberry, and blueberry notes. Hints of vanilla and roasted meat accent the aromas and flavors. Medium tannins provide just enough structure.
Price: $21
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Cupertinum Copertino Riserva 2015
From the Copertino DOC in southern Puglia, this Negroamaro wine is relatively soft, with overripe strawberry, raspberry, and blueberry flavors, punctuated by a mineral note. Fine tannins make it effortless to drink. Perfect for pizza and red-sauce pastas.
Price: $14
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Polvanera La Marchesana Nero di Troia Puglia IGT 2022
Refreshing acidity supports this wine that projects aromas and tastes of blackberry, blueberry cobbler, and a touch of espresso. Made from organically grown Nero di Troia grapes and aged in stainless steel.
Price: $16
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Tratturi Primitivo Puglia 2022
The era of the distinctive $10 wine is mostly history, but this organic Primitivo shows that it’s still possible to find such bargains. It’s got a good deal of complexity and great fruit. Blueberry, dark plum, and raspberry notes, punctuated by hints of braised meat, vanilla bean, and smoke.
Price: $10
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Next up: the wines of France’s Rhône Valley
