The red blend is a hallmark of Bordeaux, where it’s unusual to find single-varietal wines. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and a couple of minor players are almost always blended, with the emphasis guided by whether the wine is from the Left Bank (Cabernet Sauvignon) or Right Bank (Merlot).
In the United States, by contrast, red blends aren’t as strictly defined, but there’s a great deal to explore. One region where they are common yet relatively unheralded is New York’s Finger Lakes, where a sampling of almost 20 of the wines I tasted from different producers shows their depth, individuality, and value.
There are all kinds of variations in the Finger Lakes wines: Some are dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, some by Merlot, and some by Cabernet Franc, which many consider the region’s top red variety. Still other blends include non-Bordeaux reds such as Lemberger (also called Blaufränkisch) and Saperavi, the inky red variety native to the country of Georgia.
Finger Lakes reds reflect the region’s cooler climate. They’ve got plenty of acidity and lower alcohol levels, often in the 12 to 13 percent range, which makes them excellent food wines. The style evokes the wines of another time and another place — leaner California or Bordeaux reds from the ’80s and ’90s, before the shift to power over poise in red wine, driven by a warming climate and the preferences of certain critics.
When the grapes are combined in these Finger Lakes red blends, the sum becomes much stronger than the individual varieties. With their elegance and balance, the cool-climate reds of the Finger Lakes offer a fresh perspective on the American red blend, and should definitely be on your radar.
Here are 11 of the best red blends from the Finger Lakes:
Lakewood Vineyards Sixty/40 2024
This blend of 60 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 40 percent Cab Franc opens up to reveal ripe cherry and raspberry notes and touches of vanilla and herbs. There’s a hint of eucalyptus on the nose and a bit of the bell pepper of Cab Franc. Though it’s based on Bordeaux varieties, it came across more Pinot Noir-like in its fruit profile and mouthfeel.
Price: $40
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Airy Acres Aviator’s Red 2024
Who would have thought that Lemberger (Blaufränkisch) would blend well with Cab Franc? Well, they did at this relatively new Cayuga Lake winery, and it works. The blend is roughly half and half, and the result is a wine marked by delicious red and dark fruit notes with hints of cinnamon and spice. The concentrated fruit has a leafy touch characteristic of Cab Franc. The wine was aged for 14 months in French oak barrels, but the wood influence is minimal. Lively acidity keeps it fresh, and alcohol is a moderate 12.6 percent. Also worth trying: Airy Acres’ 2023 Vinifera Red Blend, which includes some Saperavi and Cabernet Sauvignon in addition to Cab Franc and Lemerger.
Price: $22
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Bloomer Creek Vineyard White Horse Red Blend 2021
This fruity, high-acid blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot — the winery calls it a tribute to the famed Château Cheval Blanc in Saint-Émilion — is simply delicious with its red berry and blueberry aromas and flavors and its mineral and earth notes. It reminded me more of a Loire Valley Cab Franc or perhaps a Beaujolais made with carbonic maceration. A number of online retailers are selling it for around $10 or so, making it an almost unbelievable value.
Price: $11
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Hosmer Winery Eden Red Blend 2024
This wine drinks like a young Bordeaux and will come into its own in the next several years. Almost half the blend is Petit Verdot, which gives the wine its deep color. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Franc are the rest of the mix. The wine has notes of blackberry, unsweetened chocolate, and sage framed by medium tannins.
Price: $35
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Boundary Breaks The Harmonic 2023
This wine from Seneca Lake mirrors a Right Bank Bordeaux blend, with 70 percent Merlot and 30 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a softer expression that’s lightly tannic with blackberry and black cherry notes and a hint of pencil shavings. The winery says it uses early leaf removal and crop-thinning in mid-August, techniques that enable it to produce “uncommonly ripe fruit in a cool climate.”
Price: $25
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Wagner Vineyards Meritage 2020
The refined blend of 45 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 38 percent Cab Franc, and 17 percent Merlot starts off with aromas of pomegranate and raspberry, but as it opens up, darker fruit notes emerge on the palate along with touches of vanilla and spices from 12 months in American oak barrels. It’s all framed by smooth tannins and the region’s vibrant acidity.
Price: $30
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Thirsty Owl Meritage 2024
This wine from Cayuga Lake is a blend of 63 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 31 percent Cab Franc, and 6 percent Merlot. And it really pops as a refreshing food companion. Bright acidity supports cranberry and plum aromas and flavors, along with a touch of leather and a subtle vanilla overlay. Moderate tannins extend on the long finish.
Price: $29
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Dr. Konstantin Frank Lena Reserve 2023
The price of this wine puts it up there with many top American reds, but it’s justified. It’s one of the more unusual blends, dominated by Blaufränkisch, Merlot, and Saperavi with smaller amounts of Cab Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Complex and relatively deep in color, its notes of concentrated dark fruit and violets are accented by hints of fennel and cumin seeds, earth, and a chalky minerality. Still a bit tightly wound, it’s a wine to enjoy now but it will evolve for several years. The wine is named for a daughter of the founder, Dr. Konstantin Frank. The ’22 vintage is available on the website.
Price: $60
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Heron Hill The Chosen Spot Ingle Vineyard 2023
Concentrated fruit is the hallmark of this wine from Keuka Lake, with red and dark fruit notes including pomegranate, raspberry, and cassis. The blend of Cab Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot has hints of bell pepper and herbs supported by a medium tannic structure. It’s aged for 19 to 20 months in French oak barrels, but the wood is well integrated.
Price: $50
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Damiani Wine Cellars Meritage 2022
This elegant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cab Franc from Seneca Lake is marked by ripe red and dark fruit notes and stony minerality. Black cherry, raspberry, and fresh blueberry aromas and flavors are punctuated by vanilla and spice notes and supported by lively acidity. A lovely wine now, it will continue to develop for several more years.
Price: $45
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Atwater Vineyards Symvolí 2024
This Seneca Lake wine, a blend of 57 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 33 percent Merlot, and 10 percent Cab Franc, is relatively soft but delicious. Notes of blackberry and cassis with vanilla, spice, and espresso accents. The 2023 vintage is available on the winery’s website.
Price: $30
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