The concept of terroir has been essential to the history of Burgundy since (at least) the Middle Ages when the Cistercian monks started documenting vineyard sites across the region. Each plot was meticulously mapped out and categorized based on where the vines were most successful and what the resulting wines tasted like.
Many of the areas that were selected as the cream of the crop back then are still highly regarded to this day. The monks established Clos de Vougeot as the region’s first walled vineyard in 1336 and the wines from this iconic grand cru site in the Côte de Nuits are still sought after.
Even though some of the most storied vineyard sites continue to produce incredible wines, finding them (at a reasonable price) can be challenging because of limited supply and high demand. But Burgundy is an ever-evolving area for viticulture and winemaking. Factors like climate change, new winemakers, and trends in winemaking style can all contribute to the quality of wine coming out of a specific village or vineyard site.
So while some of these areas might not have the acclaim of a Meursault or Gevrey-Chambertin, sommeliers are finding great value and innovation in the lesser-known villages. Some are seeing more consistent vintages due to changes in weather patterns. And others are home to an exciting crop of up-and-coming producers.
We asked sommeliers what Burgundy villages they’re most excited about right now to get a closer look at which areas are thriving by 2025’s standards. If you’re looking to expand your Burgundy collection beyond just the top names, or hoping to score a great value in one of the world’s most expensive wine regions, read on to see the areas somms are loving right now.
Maranges
Haran McElroy, Smithereens, New York City
Maranges is a village on the southern tip of the Côte de Beaune that primarily produces Pinot Noir. The area is relatively close to prestigious appellations like Chassagne-Montrachet, but has mostly flown under the radar. This is because the village’s clay-rich soils were known for producing darker, more concentrated Pinot Noirs. Wines from this area were traditionally sent up to négociants in northern villages whose wines were too light and needed some extra character. Maranges was finally recognized as its own appellation in 1989 and since then a number of exciting domaines have emerged, making expressive Pinots that punch above their weight.
“I’m really excited about Maranges and I would say a lot of that is due to Hugo Mathurin and Talloulah Debourg at Domaine de Cassiopée,” Haran McElroy, sommelier at NYC’s Smithereens, notes. “There’s so much energy in the wines and a clear vision right out the gate that has me enthralled. I’m eager to see not only what they’ll do in the future but also what they might inspire across the rest of the village. It feels a lot like finding a really good band while they’re still touring in clubs but you know they’re gonna be in an arena soon enough.”
Pernand-Vergelesses
Julia Schwartz, Claud, NYC
On the northern end of the Côte de Beaune is the small village of Pernand-Vergelesses. While it’s not a totally obscure appellation, the wines don’t see as much acclaim as bottles from the neighboring area of Corton.
“Pernand-Vergelesses isn’t necessarily off the beaten path but you would think so based on how overlooked it can be,” says Julia Schwartz, the wine director at New York’s Claud. “The village is home to zero grand cru vineyards but juts up right against the famous Corton Charlemagne. More and more producers have been taking advantage of this sneaky special terroir and the wines being made punch way above their price points.”
One producer shining a light on the region in particular is Maison Skyaasen, which only bottled its first vintage in 2019. “Joachim Skyaasen’s a true advocate for the region,” Schwartz says. “Its ‘Ile des Vergelesses’ Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Blanc shows spice, freshness and length — proof of the village’s serious terroir.”
Savigny-lès-Beaune
Matthias Cattelin, Verjus, San Francisco
On the other side of Pernand-Vergelesses is the larger Savigny-lès-Beaune area, which has similarly lived in the shadows of its more prestigious neighbors. But recently, wine pros like Matthias Cattelin, the wine director at San Francisco’s Verjus, have started to pay attention to the impressive set of producers in this area.
“Savigny lès Beaune is still a bit under the radar compared to some of its neighbors, but the value is incredible for the quality you get,” Cattelin says. “The wines have this great balance of bright red fruit, gentle spice, and just enough structure to stay serious without losing their charm. With warmer vintages, Savigny’s cooler exposures are really showing their strength.”
Cattelin calls out well-known producers that work in this area, like Simon Bize and Chandon de Briailles, that continue to set the tone for classic wines from the region, but he also notes a new generation of winemakers. “Puy de l’Ours, Maison Skyaasen, Maison Gautheron d’Anost, and Domaine Le Grappin are bringing a lot of freshness and energy to the village,” he says. “It feels like Savigny is really having a moment right now.”
Saint-Romain
Ellis Srubas-Giammanco, Penny, NYC
Another small village in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune, Saint-Romain is where Ellis Srubas-Giammanco, the wine director for New York’s Penny, turns for white Burgundies of excitement and value. “This small commune is slightly removed from Burgundy’s main drag, westward up a narrow valley from Meursault and Auxey-Duresses. The elevation of vineyards here creeps towards 400 meters, noticeably higher than the most prized swaths of Meursault, Puligny, and Chassagne,” he explains. “Historically, the wines from Saint-Romain are described as leaner than their downslope counterparts, though warming temperatures now provide a comfortable guarantee of ripeness.”
Srubas-Giammanco also notes that there are no premier cru-designated vineyards in Saint-Romain, so even the appellation’s top single-vineyard wines tend to be fairly priced.
Within the area, Srubas-Giammanco shares that he’s particularly drawn to the wines from the Combe Bazin vineyard. “My favorite expression of this place comes from Pierre-Henri Rougeot, who produces two bottlings from this site (one with and one without added sulphites),” he says. “His family’s vines here are nearly 100 years old, producing a wine of robust, sunny concentration propped up by a fine spine of acidity that, to me, is Saint-Romain’s signature.”
Saint-Aubin
Eun Hee Kwon, Saga, NYC
Sommelier at two-Michelin-star Saga, Eun Hee Kwon recommends Saint-Aubin as another often overlooked area for standout white wines in the Côtes de Beaune.
“When it comes to selling wines to guests who are considering drinking Burgundies, I do normally gravitate towards villages like Vosne-Romanée and Meursault since they are often looking for the classics from benchmark producers — which everyone loves, of course,” she says. “I, too, am a sucker for those wines from the greats, but unfortunately I can’t always afford them on a regular basis, so I seek wines from villages that provide great value, like Saint-Aubin and Savigny-lès-Beaune.”
You can often find wines from all-star producers for a better value from here, rather than their other bottlings from the more prestigious sites, but there are a number of up-and-coming producers working in Saint-Aubin as well.
Hautes-Côtes
Max Mackinnon, Petit Coquin, San Antonio
Rather than searching for value from specific villages, Max Mackinnon, chef behind NYC spots Libertine and Plus de Vin as well as Petit Coquin, a new French restaurant in San Antonio, suggests looking to bottles from the Hautes-Côtes appellations. These areas (including the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits and the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune) include vineyards on the high slopes surrounding the more prestigious appellations located on the mid-slopes. Here, where sourcing grapes is more attainable, you can find wines from interesting up-and-coming producers.
“When looking for exciting wines in Burgundy, I often look to younger winemakers or newer estates. Many of them have spent time with top domaines, and some continue to work those jobs while building their own name,” he says. “Finding fruit from the most known appellations is difficult and expensive, so wines from the Hautes-Côtes are where winemakers can begin their work without a huge investment. Some producers that I think are making great wines include Domaine de Mandelot, La Chaume des Lies, Les Jardiniers Vignerons, Maison A&S, and Domaine des Rouges Queues.”
Blagny
Michael Chung, Muku, NYC
Blagny is a tiny, 2.5-acre hamlet tucked between the heavy-hitting villages of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. The small appellation was created in 1937 to cover the red wines from seven vineyards around the area’s largely white wine-dominated growing areas, so it often goes overlooked.
But Michael Chung, sommelier at NYC’s new Muku, says that more recently, there are some interesting Chardonnays coming out of Blagny. “The commercial success of white Burgundy has driven villages in the Côte de Beaune to pull out Pinot Noir to plant Chardonnay, and the same is true for Blagny,” he says. “Officially, it only produces red wine, while its white wines are labeled as either ‘Meursault-Blagny’ or ‘Puligny-Montrachet,’ depending on which side of the border they come from. Excellent examples come from producers like Benjamin Leroux and Domaine Matrot.”
