Seeking out a good bottle of mezcal can feel like shooting from the hip. Although it’s fairly common knowledge in the spirits space that Espadín agave accounts for the vast majority of mezcal production, there are dozens of other varieties that producers commonly use, each with its own unique set of characteristics.
Additionally, all mezcal legally falls into one of three specific categories: ancestral, artesanal, and mezcal. Ancestral expressions are made using strictly traditional production methods, including roasting agave in pit ovens and clay pot distillation. The next tier, mezcal artesanal, can employ some non-traditional techniques, but still prohibits the use of heavy-duty equipment like high-pressure autoclave ovens. Lastly, there’s just mezcal, which must adhere to the bare minimum production guidelines outlined by NOM-070, the official set of rules that governs mezcal specifications, production, and labeling.
Even when equipped with a base knowledge of common agave varieties and the three categories of mezcal, finding a truly outstanding, authentic bottle requires some extra analysis and further reading of the fine print. From eyeing ABVs to double-checking if brands even exist in the first place, here’s what buyers should do when shopping for mezcal.
Check the Color — or Lack Thereof
“The first thing you have to see is that [the mezcal] is crystalline — clear and transparent,” Eduardo Ángeles Carreno. a.k.a. Lalo, founder of Mezcal Lalocura, explains on Episode 3 of VinePair’s podcast miniseries “Mezcal’s Untold Past, Soaring Present, and Fragile Future.”
These mezcals are usually labeled as joven, which means young, or rather, unaged. As is the case with tequila, mezcals that are light or dark brown in color have been aged in oak barrels, and are labelled as either reposado or añejo. In Lalo’s and many other mezcaleros’ eyes, the aging process masks and muddies the agave’s flavor.
Look at the ABV
As with many other spirits, if a mezcal clocks in right at 40 percent ABV, there’s a good chance the producer diluted the spirit with water to either achieve a consistent, desired profile within a large batch or stretch the bottle count of said batch. While this isn’t inherently a bad thing in other spirit categories, Lalo claims that proper mezcal needs to be at least 45 percent ABV. This takes a whole host of brands out of the running, and virtually all reposado and añejo mezcal expressions. However, if a bottle’s ABV sits at 45 percent or higher, buyers can rest assured that a conscious decision was made to preserve the agave’s integrity.
Take Note of the Bottle Count
Given that traditionally made mezcal is generally produced in very small quantities, it’s ideal to seek out bottles that include the batch size on their labels. Often, authentic producers will share the exact number of bottles they released for each specific expression. “If you see mezcal from a brand that has more than 3,000 bottles per batch, definitely don’t buy,” Lalo says. “You should always buy small batches of less than 1,000 bottles — maybe even 300 or 200 bottles. If there are fewer bottles, the product might be better, or at least more authentic.”
Beware of Phantom Brands
Some brands covertly fly in the face of transparency. The label looks pretty, some details regarding production are listed, but the brand itself could be an outlet for large, factory-produced mezcal in disguise. Thanks to the internet, though, detecting such imposters is relatively easy. “The label should contain the name of the producer and the community,” Lalo says. “Search for it on Google, and if it doesn’t appear, don’t buy it. There are many brands on the market that don’t exist physically. There’s a label, but no place.” If it’s tough to confirm where a brand is from, how it produces its mezcal, or if it even exists in the first place, buy something else.
Make Sure the Mezcalero’s Name Is on the Bottle
In addition to bottle counts, many brands will include details on the production methods and equipment used to make their mezcal. While that is all helpful information, Lalo notes that listing the name of the mezcalero (distiller) responsible for crafting the liquid is a key marker of brand transparency. “It’s very important to see the producer’s name. In other words, [you want] to see the producer listed in addition to the brand name itself,” he says. It may not make or break a purchase, but if a bottle includes the mezcalero’s name, it’s a sign that the distiller is a source of pride for the brand.
