Although they are produced and imported in large quantities, Sauvignon Blancs from Chile are still underappreciated. Stylistically, many lie somewhere between Sauvignons from New Zealand and those from Bordeaux, featuring racy acidity, a good deal of citrus, and the variety’s quintessential “grassiness.”
One that fits that bill is the quite lovely 2021 “Las Mulas” Sauvignon Blanc Reserva from Miguel Torres Chile, a large producer that was established in 1979 as an offshoot of the venerable Spanish wine company of the same name.
It’s made from organic grapes grown in Chile’s Central Valley, a vast area that encompasses some of the better-known subregions and, without more specificity (such as the Maipo or Maule Valleys), suggests a generic quality to the wine. But that is not the case here.
There’s a nuance and complexity that belies the suggested $15 price, making it somewhat more than a simple, “everyday” wine. That said, it’s also a wine that you could easily have on hand as a refreshing, relatively light, and non-oaked house white.
It’s moderately herbal, or “grassy,” with lime, apricot, and green apple notes, and finishes with a touch of mint and a nice creamy note. It makes for an interesting aperitif and will pair well with raw clams and oysters, sushi, grilled asparagus and zucchini, and many Thai dishes.
“Las Mulas” means “the mules” and is a tip of the hat to animals that used to work the vineyards. It also suggests Miguel Torres’s commitment to sustainability, including the fact that all of its vineyards are certified organic. And while that alone doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll find a great-tasting wine in the bottle, Torres’s 2021 “Las Mulas” Sauvignon Blanc is one that hits the mark.
