When it comes to oysters, which have been all the rage in restaurants for years now, the mineral-driven Chardonnays of Chablis and the nervy Muscadets of the Loire Valley have been go-to wine pairings. But there’s another excellent choice, also from France, that’s under the radar: Picpoul de Pinet.
For those unfamiliar, Picpoul, or Piquepoul as it’s sometimes spelled, is the name of the grape. And most of the wines fall under the Picpoul de Pinet appellation in the south of France in the coastal part of Languedoc, where Picpoul is the traditional wine for the oysters harvested from the lagoons fed by the Mediterranean Sea.
In fact, a top winery producing it, Domaine Félines Jourdan, overlooks a large oyster bed in the Thau lagoon, which you look out on from its tasting room. Picpoul is also grown in the Southern Rhône and even, in small quantities, in California.
In terms of aromas and flavors, Picpoul has a lot going on. Depending on the bottling, it can lean heavily on herbal, floral, and umami notes, or it can be more fruit-forward. I enjoy both styles.
In her book “French Country Wines,” Rosemary George also notes “a rather delicate smoky flavour” and calls Picpoul de Pinet a “surprising oasis of white wine in a sea of predominantly red Coteaux du Languedoc.”
As I noted, Picpoul never met a fish it didn’t want to join for dinner. Crisply acidic, it’s made for all kinds of shellfish, raw or cooked. It will soar as well with simply prepared fillets like flounder, fluke, or sole, broiled or sautéed with lemon and herbs. Because of that profile, it has been called the “Muscadet of the South.”
Picpoul de Pinet is one of the best values among refreshing, lower-alcohol wines from France or anywhere, with all the wines in the list below in the $12 to $25 range. It’s easy to think of them as refreshing summer whites, which they are. But there’s no reason to limit them to the warmer months. Many have considerable complexity, which emerges as they warm up in the glass.
And here is something I didn’t know: There is also a red Picpoul known as Picpoul Noir, and I’ve included a notable example in the list below.
Here are nine of the best Picpouls to try now:
Domaine Félines Jourdan Picpoul de Pinet 2023
Wet stone and saline aromas are followed by flavors of lemon-lime, orange, green apple, and sage. Mediterranean herbs are a hallmark of this wine and persist on the long, mineral finish. The grapes are from three vineyards with varying soils, including limestone, clay, sandstone, chalk, and pebbles.
Price: $16
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Domaine la Grangette Picpoul de Pinet ‘Poule de Pic’ 2023
There’s good complexity in this Picpoul, which leans to the herbal side but has nice aromas and flavors of honeydew melon, apricot, and lemon-lime. I detected a hint of powdered cinnamon and some saltiness on the long finish. The grapes are farmed organically.
Price: $20
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Domaine Guillaume Cabrol Picpoul de Pinet 2024
This is a more fruit-forward expression of Picpoul that should please many palates, with pear, citrus, and stone fruit notes and hints of white pepper and herbs in the background. Like most Picpouls, it’s also a real bargain.
Price: $14
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Domaine Gaujal de Saint Bon Picpoul de Pinet ‘Cuvée des Dames’ 2024
A Picpoul with a more generous character and a bit more alcohol at 13.5 percent, this example shows notes of fresh and candied lemon, pineapple, and touches of strawberry, honey, and baking spice. The vines are grown organically and the wine receives extended lees aging, which accounts for its richer character. The “dames” in the name refer to the mother and daughter team, Simonne and Virginie Gaujal, who run the estate.
Price: $15
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Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue Picpoul de Pinet 2024
This superb Picpoul from a large Languedoc estate practically jumps out of the glass with its burst of citrus fruit and lively acidity. A touch of cream softens the landing on the very long finish.
Price: $21
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Mas de Daumas Gassac Moulin de Gassac Picpoul de Pinet 2023
Delicious fruit combined with savory and herbal hints define this Picpoul, which is made for aperitifs and lighter foods. Stone fruit, green apple skin, and touches of salt and honey on the nose and palate are framed by the variety’s refreshing acidity. A superb example from one of the better-known Languedoc domaines.
Price: $12
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Domaine de Saint Cosme ‘Les Deux Albion’ Blanc 2023
Picpoul is sometimes used as a blending variety, as it is in this sophisticated white wine from the famed Saint Cosme estate in the Southern Rhône’s Gigondas appellation. The wine, a blend of Viognier, Picpoul, and Marsanne, is aged in large oak barrels and stainless steel tanks and has a rich mouthfeel with notes of dried stone fruits, flowers, and the ample acidity that Picpoul brings.
Price: $24
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Bonny Doon Vineyard Picpoul Central Coast 2024
This is a superb example of Picpoul from the pioneering Rhône-centric Bonny Doon Vineyard in California’s Central Coast. With alcohol at just 11 percent, the wine sings as an aperitif and will pair well with all kinds of fish and vegetable dishes. Aromas and flavors of subtle white peach, apricot, and pineapple are accented by touches of flowers and herbs. There’s vibrant and well-balanced acidity in this $15 steal.
Price: $15
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Domaine la Grangette Côtes de Thau ‘Cocoriko’ 2024
This charming red wine from the Côtes de Thau area of Languedoc is made with the rare Piquepoul Noir variety, which is one of the 18 grapes permitted in Châteauneuf-du-Pape but is seldom used. Here, on its own, it shows an attractive rusticity perfect for simple meals like grilled chicken or fish. Red fruit aromas and tastes, including pomegranate and raspberry, are framed by ample acidity and accented by a wet-stone minerality on the long finish.
Price: $20
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Next up: The wines of Italy’s Alto Adige.
