It’s difficult, and perhaps unfair, to compare the wines of Burgundy — the red Pinot Noirs and the white Chardonnays — with examples of the varieties from other parts of the wine world.
I’m not saying that Burgundies are better; some may prefer wines from California, Oregon, New Zealand or many other New and Old World regions where the grapes are also grown. But the fact is that the wines of Burgundy are unique and serve as a benchmark by which Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from other regions are often compared and judged.
For me, Burgundy offers the most interesting, complex Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, even those from lesser appellations and with relatively modest price tags. They tend to be earthy with red fruit notes, ample acidity, and moderate alcohol levels, unlike many from, say, California, which tend to be bigger, darker wines with higher alcohol.
As you may have realized, Burgundy prices have skyrocketed in recent years, especially those from top appellations like Merusault and Chassagne Montrachet for the whites and Pommard and Vougeot for the reds, among others. While lesser appellations are not quite so expensive — Santenay and Mercurey, to name a couple — some of the best values are wines simply labeled “Bourgogne.”
Although Bourgogne is the broadest Burgundy designation, the wines are often made by producers in the more famous areas, but with grapes grown just outside an appellation’s limits — in the areas adjacent to more prestigious vineyards, for instance — or from younger vines that a grower may deem not yet ready for prime time.
The quality of Bourgogne wines has improved significantly in recent years. And the ones I’ve listed below show excellent fruit and considerable complexity; or they are simply charming, lighter wines, including reds that are perfect for summer drinking, like Bourgogne Pinot Noirs from Rossignol and Patricia Raquin.
Almost all of them are under $40, which makes them bargains by today’s Burgundy standards. And there’s one more thing about the Bourgogne designation: You’ll notice that the front labels include “Pinot Noir” or “Chardonnay,” which eliminates any confusion about the grape — this should be standard practice on all French wines.
Here are 10 of the best Bourgone Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays:
Domaine Michel & Marc Rossignol Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2020
From a producer in Volnay, this is an excellent Pinot Noir that announces itself with earthy aromas typical of red Burgundy. On the palate, it’s dominated by red fruits and blueberry notes with a touch of cinnamon, all of it framed by smooth tannins, lively acidity, and a chalky minerality on the finish. The acidity enabled it to hold its own with a plate of (my wife’s excellent) boeuf bourguignon.
Price: $29
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Domaine Rapet Bourgogne Pinot Noir – En Bully 2020
Made from organic grapes grown on the “Bully” vineyard not far from Corton, the famous grand cru appellation, this one rises above ”everyday” Burgundy with its concentrated fruit, earth notes, and lively character. Red cherry, cranberry, and crushed dried blueberry notes are accented by touches of brown sugar, mint, and tobacco. There’s a lot going on here.
Price: $29
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Patricia Raquin Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2021
From a longtime Burgundy negociant, this wine is in a higher-acid, lighter style that begs to be chilled and served with white meats and fish. The alcohol is a refreshing 12.5 percent. Dark cherry and red licorice flavors are punctuated by touches of beef bouillon cube, black pepper, and powdered cocoa. Dusty tannins persist on the long finish.
Price: $23
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Joseph Faiveley Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2021
Young but delicious, this high-acid, refreshing Pinot Noir from one of the most famous Burgundy houses can take a chill, and will be perfect with grilled salmon, herbed chicken, or pork. Sour cherry, red plum, and hints of baking spices are the main flavors. The wine will age nicely for a few years or so.
Price: $40
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Domaine Elodie Roy Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2020
From a winemaking family in the lesser-known Maranges appellation in the southern end of Burgundy, Elodie Roy took over the estate five years ago after working for 11 years at a winery in Vosne-Romanée. This is a lovely Pinot Noir that shows dried raspberry, cherry, and cranberry notes supported by lively acidity and chewy tannins. Like many red Bourgognes, it will continue to develop for several years.
Price: $30
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Domaine Guy Amiot et Fils Bourgogne Chardonnay 2020
From a producer in Chassagne-Montrachet, this Chardonnay offers a delightful combination of green apple, citrus, and tropical fruit notes, along with hints of underripe strawberry, baking spices, and herbs. There’s a wet-stone minerality on the finish. It’s drinking nicely now and will develop for another year or two.
Price: $25
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Maison Chanzy Bourgogne Chardonnay “Les Fortunés” 2021
This wine grew on me as it opened up and was even better the next day. There’s a good deal of gunflint on the nose at first, something that is not uncommon in white Burgundy. But then the unusual tropical fruit notes come into play, including papaya and pineapple along with a good deal of citrus. There’s a touch of butterscotch from the oak. All in all, an intriguing Chardonnay.
Price: $36
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Domaine Chavy Martin Bourgogne Chardonnay 2021
Exceptional balance is the hallmark of this superb Chardonnay, which is drinking beautifully right now. The grapes are from two parcels near Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. A hint of gunflint interjects itself into the white peach, apricot, and green apple skin flavors. Barrel aging — evidenced by a creamy hint but not much more — is nicely integrated. There’s a mineral note on the finish. This is a subtle, classy wine.
Price: $32
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Domaine du Roc des Boutires Bourgogne Blanc 2021
From a Pouilly-Fuissé producer, this is a stellar example of what “Bourgogne Blanc” can achieve: The fruit is delicious, there’s superb balance, and the wine simply beckons you to take another sip. Honeysuckle and orange are the primary flavors, with a touch of lime and a creamy layer on the finish. Notably, only 5 percent of the wine was aged in oak barrels, with 95 percent aged in stainless steel.
Price: $30
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Joseph Faiveley Bourgogne Chardonnay 2021
Another beautifully balanced Chardonnay that shows a core of green apple with lots of secondary notes, including strawberry, orange, and fennel seed. There’s a hint of cinnamon on the dry, mineral finish. The influence of oak aging is muted and doesn’t call attention to itself.
Price: $39
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Next up: Loire Valley Cabernet Francs
