There are hundreds of white wine grapes in the world, and none can be the wine of the moment forever. Butter-bomb Chardonnays give way to New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs or “crushable” Vinho Verdes; pale Pinot Grigios lose favor to their trendier, skin-contact counterparts; and once-accessible wines like Sancerre lose their value proposition to rising prices.
As white wine continues to boom, people are bound to have some opinions. As always, grapes, regions, styles, producers will cycle into vogue (or simply ubiquity), inspiring an inevitable backlash. In other cases, there are wines that some industry folks might just not like — after all, if they loved everything, they wouldn’t be doing their jobs.
Here we asked 16 sommeliers, bar owners, beverage directors, and more wine professionals to share the white wines they’ve had enough of — from low-hanging fruit like sweet Rieslings and oaky Chardonnays to wine-world darlings taking up a little too much space. Read on to learn what they needed to get off their chests.
The most overrated white wines, according to wine professionals:
- Pinot Grigio
- Sauvignon Blanc
- Northern Rhône white wines
- Sancerre
- Grüner Veltliner
- Frascati
- Sweet Riesling
- Single-varietal white wines
- Xarel-lo
- Oregon Pinot Gris
- South African white wines
- Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay
- Albariño
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
- Cortese
- Oaked Chardonnay
“Pinot Grigio often lacks complexity and depth, primarily because its grapes have thin skins and are frequently cultivated in high-yield vineyards. These conditions tend to produce wines with subtle, muted flavors that can feel faint, indistinct, and repetitive, leaving little space for nuance or distinctive character. When I studied for the blind tasting section for the sommelier exams, I learned to identify wines like Pinot Grigio by their medium to medium-plus structure — meaning the acidity, alcohol, and body are all at similar levels. While this balanced profile may seem beneficial, it can sometimes lead to wines that lack individual personality or swagger. In truth, Pinot Grigio often comes across as a straightforward, easy-drinking option that doesn’t stand out for its unique traits but rather for its consistency and simplicity.” —Brian Huynh, wine director, Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek, Dallas
“About 15 years ago, I would’ve said Chardonnay was the most overrated white wine. But these days, it’s Sauvignon Blanc. Without even looking at the wine list, so many guests ask for it automatically. It’s a safe choice, but there’s a whole world of amazing, overlooked whites out there that deserve just as much attention.” —Alonso Ascencio, beverage director, Meski, San Francisco
“Overrated? Northern Rhône whites, without question. They’re a stereotype in a bottle: beautiful, pedigreed, and faintly insufferable. Marsanne and Roussanne brood with all the tedium of a philosophy lecture, while Viognier, ever the show-off, is over-scented and overconfident. Yes, they can be exquisite (there are always exceptions — the beauty of wine!), but too often these are wines meant to be admired for intellectual stimulation, not enjoyed. Drink them if you must, but don’t confuse flamboyance with substance.” —Adam Waddell, wine director, Eleven Madison Park, NYC
“Sancerre is a French wine region renowned for crisp, dry, unoaked Sauvignon Blanc with elevated acidity. However, it is a victim of its own popularity, and thus its price continues to climb in the market. The good news is, there are a bevy of other acid-driven wines with a strong mineral streak that can offer a similar — or even superior — experience at a fraction of the price.” —Thomas Kakalios, beverage director and lead sommelier, Andros Taverna, Asador Bastian, and Mano a Mano, Chicago
“Grüner Veltliner is often treated as this endlessly complex darling, but most of what’s out there feels one-note and predictable. Growers lean into its easy drinkability and that faint peppery charm, but the grape itself hasn’t really evolved in years. ” —Tecla Esposito, owner, Heaven & Earth, Brooklyn
“Frascati is overrated! This wine is very popular in central Italy, more specifically Lazio, and made by blending Malvasia Bianca di Candia and Malvasia del Lazio. Although it may be enjoyed with seafood while vacationing in Ponza, it rarely stands up when consumed outside of those nostalgic moments. I find that they don’t have the bright acidity and green apple notes that are much more prevalent in wines such as Arneis or Kerner. Some producers in Lazio have brought back almost extinct grape varietals such as Bellone — Casale del Giglio makes a very nice one that is a well-structured wine with flavor that persists throughout every sip. For the most part, wines from Lazio were sold in bulk and delivered to other parts of Europe for blending purposes.” —Anthony Briatico, beverage director, ‘ino, NYC
“Sweet Rieslings. The sickeningly sweet offerings that have dominated grocery store shelves have all but alienated the wine-drinking crowd. Dry Rieslings are better balanced, with fresh, crisp acidity balancing the big aromatics that come with their rich flavors. Drier styles also pair with more styles of food than you can count, and the best of them develop incredible character with age. You may have to do a little hunting and pay a little more to find something from Alsace, Pfalz, Niederösterreich, or Clare Valley, but these are the regions that’ll change your perception of what Riesling truly is.” —Leilani Anderson, sommelier, The Restaurant at Hotel Bel-Air, Los Angeles
“Our answer: single-varietal wines. We love promoting field blends and co-ferments on our list. Often more so than common single varietals, these wines rely on intuition, alchemy, collaboration, traditional methods, and leaning into the land and its volatility. And because these wines are less recognizable — sometimes the list of grapes is so long that we have to add ‘etc.’ to fit it on the menu — it gives us an opportunity to chat with our guests about process and sourcing, and to really celebrate the full narrative of the wine.” —Alexandra Rosenberg and James Bailey, owners, RAE’s, Margaretville, N.Y.
“100 percent Xarel-lo wines. Whenever I try a white wine that is so alcoholic that it reminds me of drinking Scotch, it’s usually Xarel-lo. Maybe in a pre-climate-change world, this grape made a beautiful wine, but it’s way too strong and sweet these days — toss it in the Cava and enjoy how well it balances with the Macabeo and Parellada.” —Henry Rich, managing partner, the Oberon Group, Brooklyn
“For years, Pinot Gris was the white wine flagbearer for Oregon, though its charm has always been more about consistency than character. Crisp, simple, and safe, it seldom surprises. Oregon Chardonnay, by contrast, brims with precision and poise, the true measure of the state’s white wine potential.” —Ryan McLoughlin, head sommelier, Sea Island Resort, Sea Island, Ga.
“The most overrated category of white wines, in my view, comes from South Africa. I’ve yet to taste a Chenin or Sauvignon Blanc from there that doesn’t make me wish I’d just poured something from the Loire instead — richer, more layered, and more compelling every time.” —Jeff Norton, sommelier, The Bazaar by José Andrés, Washington, D.C.
“The most overrated white wine has to be Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay. It’s in so many restaurants that are not trying to have anything original — and also my mom’s cellar, for the same reason. There are dozens of wines that taste just like that, but better.” —Troy Revell, wine and beer director, The Fearrington House Inn & Restaurant, Pittsboro, N.C.
“Once seen as a fresh coastal discovery, Albariño has become a default ‘safe pick’ on wine lists. Too many expressions are all citrus and salt without depth, making it more of a crowd pleaser than a wine with real evolution or texture.” —Freddy Salazar, beverage director, Enso, Brooklyn
“For me, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc tends to be overrated. I find many examples to be over-extracted and a bit overcooked, whether young or with some age. While there are certainly fine exceptions, the style often feels heavy-handed and lacks the freshness I look for in white wines.” —Claire Paparazzo, wine director, Hotel Chelsea, NYC
“I would say the most overrated white wine in circulation right now would be Cortese. While there are some nice lighter-styled wines coming out of Gavi, none of them hold a candle to Timorasso. With the growing knowledge of everyday wine drinkers, I predict there will be a growing appreciation for it over Cortese.” —Tommy Angelina, sommelier, Lark, Bala Cynwyd, Pa.
“My response will likely be redundant. Oaked Chardonnay! Anyone who loves wine will tell you that a good wine is represented by virtue of terroir, varietal expression, balance, and individuality. All of which are obscured and muted by oak aging. Damn you, oak! Stay away from my wine!” —Brian Kuhlen, sommelier and general manager, Northern Spy, Canton, Mass.
