Chardonnay’s relationship with oxygen is, well, complicated at best. For the past several decades, winemakers have been taught to treat the grape variety as gently as possible to inhibit any interaction with air. Many of these producers work in fear of the dreaded “premox” (short for premature oxidation), a phenomenon that has haunted white Burgundies from the ‘90s and early aughts to this day. That’s why the Black Chardonnay method, which intentionally exposes Chardonnay to oxygen, can seem risky or even extreme. But it also leads to some of the most complex expressions of this grape in the wine world.
How exactly does the Black Chardonnay method work? And what can drinkers expect from a bottle made in this style? VinePair tapped founder of Willamette Valley’s 00 Wines Chris Hermann and Jacob Brown, sommelier at San Francisco’s Lazy Bear, to dive deeper into this uncommon style.
When it comes to Chardonnay, prospective winemakers are typically taught in schools like UC Davis to treat the grapes with caution. Brown explains: “They carefully hand-pick the grapes, immediately coat them with sulfur in the truck, use a balloon press to lightly press the Chardonnay — as to not offend its delicate nature — inoculate the juice with yeast in a closed fermentation, and frequently top up the barrels to prevent any further oxidation.”
The Black Chardonnay process flies in the face of this traditional advice, treating the wines somewhat harshly and maximizing their exposure to oxygen. This technique is more in line with how old-school producers might have made Burgundy 70-plus years ago. “They bring the grapes to the winery, stomp on them outside, then press the grapes — turning that press up to 11,” Brown says. “They smash the ever-living daylights out of it, trying to get all that texture from the skins.” The result is a liquid that almost immediately turns an appallingly dark brown color.
00 Wines is one of the leading producers using this method in the U.S., and the winery is popularizing the term Black Chardonnay as a reference to the stunning color change that occurs during the winemaking process.
Hermann recalls that the first time he tried this technique, in 2015, he was shocked to see such a stark change occur so quickly. Within about 10 seconds after pressing the grape must, “it turns a very dark brown or black color,” he says. “It’s very turbid and dark, like a muddy lake bottom.” These are the phenolic compounds oxidizing — the same way an apple would when cut open and left on the counter. But then within about a month, the wine gradually returns to Chardonnay’s typical golden hue as the compounds fall to the bottom of the barrel. And the result is a deeply complex, textured, delicious wine.
In addition to creating a stunning wine, this process can also help make a wine that’s better built for aging. By rapidly exposing the grapes to oxygen from the get-go, then allowing the liquid to resolve the oxygenation itself, the resulting wine is hearty and nearly indestructible. It turns out that the more conservative, overprotective formula that restricts oxygen is more likely to lead to premox in Chardonnay. “They were making the wines too clean,” Brown adds. “Like a kid who was sheltered their whole life that finally meets the real world.”
According to Brown, this winemaking style is preferred by a few legendary producers in Burgundy like Coche-Dury and Roulot, and there are a few other winemakers in the U.S. known to use this process, including John Kongsgaard in Napa Valley, who has referred to it as the “death and resurrection” method.
As a sommelier, Brown is particularly drawn to these wines for their captivating texture and ability to pair with a wide range of dishes. “I do recommend these wines often at Lazy Bear, because our flavors aren’t shy,” he says. “The wines have texture and weight, and can handle anything from a salad or cured halibut to a fatty A5 wagyu course or even lamb.” So for fans of rich, rounded white wines, don’t be repelled by the somewhat off-putting Black Chardonnay name, and give these deeply interesting wines a try.
*Image retrieved from @vawrex via Instagram
