Commodities like milk, eggs, and bread are signposts for the general state of the economy. When a gallon, carton, and loaf cost around a few bucks, things are usually stable. But if those prices tick upward, it might be cause for alarm. Ever heard of a “recession indicator?”
The price-to-quality ratio for wine, on the other hand, is much less standardized. Add on restaurant markups, and it becomes even more convoluted. Most consumers don’t know if a high-priced Bordeaux is a good value or that a $40 bottle from the Languedoc is a steal. So, we tapped some experts to find out what signs should raise your eyebrows, and which can tell you that you’re in good hands.
5 Signs a Wine List Is a Ripoff
1. Inflated by-the-glass prices.
By-the-glass lists are the first thing casual diners sift through. They’re an immediate indication of a restaurant or bar’s wine collection and offer a snapshot of how the place prices its wine. To determine if a restaurant or bar is overcharging, spot the minimum glass price. If it’s above $24, the restaurant may be cheating you, Ian Garrity, sommelier at La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels in New York City, cautions.
However, a high starting point for BTG prices isn’t direct proof that a wine list is a rip-off — it might just be full of expensive bottles. “You may be at a high-end concept where they’re pouring really cool stuff BTG, or you could be somewhere that’s dramatically overcharging for their glass pours,” Garrity says. In that case, he suggests doing some digging to decide whether the wine is worth it.
2. A lack of creativity.
Wine is inherently contemplative, and the lists that advertise them should reflect that. When a wine list has no creativity — meaning it offers run-of-the-mill bottles that you can find anywhere — the list is likely swindling you, says Will Costello, a Master Sommelier based in Las Vegas. These lists show that the buyer did not put much effort into developing a thorough program and suggest the establishment may be relying on high markups, rather than interesting bottles, to rake in cash. “It means the buyer is not doing the hard work,” says Costello, who currently works as the executive advisor of beverage strategy and innovation for Smart Bar USA. “Finding creative new wines shows passion and understanding. If they only have the basics, you’re likely overpaying.”
3. Inconsistent bottle prices.
While an intentional range of prices is a good thing to see on a wine list, sporadic numbers — a $30 bottle here, a $300 bottle there — may be cause for concern. “A wine list feels like a rip-off when pricing is wildly inconsistent,” Daryl Coke, wine director at Bartolo, says.
Garrity agrees: He thinks that large jumps in price point means the good value wines have already been sold and that whoever oversees the program has not taken the time to fill in those gaps. “Buyer beware,” he says. “You may be forced into a situation where you are choosing between a bottle that matches your flavor profile but is far beyond your price cap and a bottle that falls within your buying range but is not at all what you’re looking for.”
4. Too many ‘grocery store’ wines.
A top-notch wine menu blends classic producers with lesser-known counterparts. It should “feel personally chosen rather than distributor-driven,” Coke says. Lists that lean heavily into the distributor-curated territory, however, are definitely cheating you.
Costello calls them “grocery-store” and “broad-market” wines. Wineries of this ilk put more emphasis on marketing rather than the quality of their liquid and charge restaurants an arm and a leg to stock their bottles — and the consumer will be the one absorbing that cost. “If the list has too many of these wines, they are overpaying, and so are you,” Costello says.
5. Buzzy regions only.
Lists that are heavy on popular regions and wines — Burgundy, Napa, Brunello, Barolo, Sonoma, to name a few — are likely relying on lauded names and not substance. In those cases, the list might be trying to swindle you. The same thing goes for a Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy catalog. Barring a particular taste for the variety, a beverage professional who goes all in on Napa Cab in particular is likely preying on big-pocketed guests. “Not only is Napa Cab very expensive overall, it usually has a customer who has disposable cash,” Costello says. “Taking advantage of this by having a huge selection means it may be overpriced.”
5 Signs a Wine List Has Great Deals
1. A sommelier who listens.
While not necessarily a written attribute, a sommelier who actively listens to his or her guests and is attuned to their wishes is a mark of a quality wine program. Not only does it affect the customer experience, it exemplifies masterful hospitality.
A well-intentioned sommelier shows that a beverage program doesn’t want to rip off its guests to make money. Instead, it suggests a restaurant prioritizes the needs of its guests above its own. “It speaks volumes about the values of the establishment, its culture, and the quality of talent that ushers you through your experience,” Garrity says. “If there is someone on staff who genuinely wants you to have a good time, to connect with you, and to welcome you back the next time you come in, the wine list should want to do the same thing.”
2. The list portrays an identity.
A well-curated and fairly priced wine list is one that evokes a cohesive identity. Bottles should make sense when enumerated on the same list. As Coke puts it, a wine catalog should represent the beverage program’s point of view, “whether that’s regional focus, producer-driven selections, or a strong by-the-glass program that invites exploration.”
As such, beverage professionals should consider what they want to say when building their stock. For example, an abundance of small producers shows that a restaurant is in the know and wants to teach its patrons about new and exciting wines. Listings can also take a more playful route, says Ronan Duchêne Le May, owner of Le Chêne. “Magnums and large formats show that you’re fun,” he says.
3. Intentional pricing.
As indicated above, irregular pricing is a sign of a rip-off. But offering a number of bottles across different price points shows that a restaurant cares about its guests and is nimble enough to cater to a varied clientele. Some bottles are marketed toward high-end buyers, and that’s understandable. “Pricing should feel considered, with some bottles clearly positioned to overdeliver,” Coke says.
Specifically, look for a chunk of bottles priced under the $100 mark. While it would be difficult for a restaurant to survive solely on bottles under $100, “pricing a remarkable amount of wine under $100 speaks to a wine team that has already put in a lot of the work, and really wants to share these wines with their guests,” Garrity says.
4. Representation of undersung regions.
A wine program can flaunt its knowledge and attention to what’s popular by representing non-mainstream regions. This is especially a sign of a good deal to members of the trade. Duchêne Le May says if he sees bottles from the Loire, or Jura, or small, independent winemakers, he knows the wine list and its pricing are intentional. Costello says this also goes for guests who aren’t knowledgeable about wine: Seeing an unknown region should be a sign of a quality list for them. “While not every consumer knows where Jahant or Mokelumne River are located, when you see these on a list, you’re likely getting a good value,” he says.
5. Authorship.
Put simply, if a beverage director or manager is proud enough to sign his or her name on a list, that tells guests that they’re in for a good deal. It takes courage to stamp your name on something that so many patrons will scan, so taking ownership of the list suggests the list’s curator is serious about the craft. “I think a beverage professional who is willing to put his or her name on the wine list is taking authorship,” Costello says. “If someone has a problem, they know who to tell.”
