Sometimes you want to drink something that challenges everything you know about wine. This is not that bottle.

Instead, No Fine Print Cabernet is lush, fruity, and compulsively drinkable. It has plummy notes and slight warmth on the nose, tipping its hand toward a 14.8 percent ABV, and the palate is balanced and bright, with juicy red fruits, light spice, and a lovely, silky texture. I found myself using the word “crushable,” a term more commonly associated with beer than wine, as I polished off my first glass. Then, I reached for a second.

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Created by Chicago sommelier Ryan Arnold (Lettuce Entertain You Restaurants), in conjunction with fourth-generation Sonoma winemakers Andrew and Adam Mariani, plus the managers of  Chance the Rapper and Skrillex, No Fine Print’s 2016 Cabernet is the rare supergroup production that exceeds expectation.

It’s also an exceptional value. The bottle retails for $20 but tastes much more nuanced than your average affordable, blow-out-your-palate domestic Cab. It would make an excellent foil for steak; but I could also see drinking it with lamb tacos, sauced chicken, or, as I did earlier this week, popcorn with olive oil, red pepper, and shaved Parmesan.

“I want this to become one of those iconic, everyday bottles,” Arnold told the Chicago Tribune. “It’s unintimidating and meant to fly off the shelf.”

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