When it comes to wine, certain regions are undeniably more famous than others, and they tend to be the ones that carry the most prestige (think places like Champagne, Burgundy, and Napa Valley). While there are certainly a number of phenomenal bottlings coming from these regions — their reputation didn’t come from nowhere — not every wine is knockout. Though one would think so given their esteem.
With that in mind, we asked six wine professionals from across the country to share their thoughts on which wine region is the most overrated. It’s important to note that “overrated” is a highly subjective term, and what one wine expert deems overrated, another could view as wildly underrated. It also doesn’t mean that these wine regions deserve to be skipped — their popularity could simply be detracting from other overlooked regions elsewhere. Here’s what they had to say.
The most overrated wine regions, according to wine professionals:
- Sancerre
- Whatever region is currently trending
- Burgundy
- Willamette Valley
- Marquee wine regions
“Sancerre. Sauvignon Blanc isn’t my favorite grape variety to begin with, and coupled with the fact that it’s ‘allocated’ now, it just turns me off. Most of the bottlings are not very exciting. That said, I do like crisp whites, but I lean into crisp whites with texture, not crisp whites with no malo and pyrazines.” —Anthony Anselmi, master sommelier & director of global wholesale, Lumen Wines, Los Alamos, Calif.
“For me, it’s usually whatever’s considered ‘cool’ at the moment. A region bursts into the spotlight and suddenly everyone flocks to it. The Finger Lakes were all the rage a few years ago, and Sicily is shining super bright right now. It doesn’t mean the wines don’t deserve the attention, they just emerge from the dark so quickly that it’s hard to control it.” —Cedric Nicaise, co-owner & sommelier, The Noortwyck, New York City
“Red Burgundy is seen as the pinnacle of Pinot Noir, but in my opinion (however, controversial) it’s one of the most overrated regions. Prices have spiraled so high that the average drinker pays more for reputation than what’s actually in the glass. While top domaines can deliver absolutely beautiful wines, much of the region’s output is thin, inconsistent, or simply underwhelming given the cost. The scarcity of land and iconic names like Romanée-Conti fuel a collector’s frenzy that skew perception of quality. I often point out that equally expressive Pinot Noirs can be found in Oregon, California, and Germany at a fraction of the price. In this sense, Burgundy has become less about wine and more about status.” —Christopher Roaché, wine professional and director of restaurants, RMD Group
“What does it mean to be overrated? I’ll tell you. It’s when the mass public’s attention and hype is focused on ‘Vanderpump Rules,’ rather than the women of ‘The Real Housewives of Salt Lake City.’ This cultural phenomenon should not be ignored, simply because Tom Sandoval initiates a visceral response in each of us. The ‘Vanderpump Rules’ of regions is the Willamette Valley; I say this with all due respect to Willamette Vallians, their families, and those working in the wine industry. With that being said, I haven’t had a wine from this region that titillates me and makes me think, ‘Oh! I want a lot more of that.’ As a wine lover, I encourage the wineries from this region to send me all the wines to convince me otherwise; I’ll be waiting.” —David Mor, beverage director, Mirra, NYC
“Overrated really comes down to being overpriced with respect to the quality of the wines. If we ignore the sliver of the wine market of ‘wine as an investment’ and focus on ‘wine for drinking,’ I would say that almost every one of the marquee regions contains many wines that are overpriced with respect to quality. Napa, Burgundy, Champagne, Chianti, Barolo are some examples. Wines from these regions carry a price premium that, in this humble wine lover’s opinion, are rarely justified. There are exceptions. Winemakers like Steve Matthiasson out of Napa, Château Le Puy out of Bordeaux, and others make stellar wines that deserve every dollar of price that they convey (and they are not pricey). [They also] demonstrate the original reason why these regions became famous to begin with.” —Mark Censits, managing partner, Maxwell Alley, Jersey City, N.J.
“I think the most ‘overrated’ wine region might be Sancerre. People seem to just ask for it, probably because it is easy to say. It offers a crisp and refreshing glass of wine, but I try to help people to discover alternatives like an Albariño from Spain, a crisp and fresh Riesling, or savory Grüner Veltliner from Austria. Even just across the river from Sancerre is Pouilly-Fumé, where you can find some alluring examples of Sauvignon Blanc. Whenever anyone orders a Sancerre, I try to show them that there are many more exciting and refreshing wines throughout the world.” —Jared Ian Stafford-Hill, chef & sommelier, Saint Urban, NYC
